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The Rise of Gnurlbane by S.D. Gloria5/10/2023 ![]() It would cost a fortune to fill the restaurant, a sprawling 160-cover site spread over a ground floor and cavernous basement, and you couldn’t be sure of much publicity from it. Lugger and Seydoux wanted to throw a party to celebrate the launch of Gloria, but their public relations advisors weren’t sure. Ask Jamie Oliver or Pizza Express.īig Mamma Group co-founder Victor Lugger. And Gloria would be aimed at the mid-market: an unforgiving, overcrowded sector with paper-thin margins, especially if you’re serving pizza and pasta. These are confounding times to be a cosmopolitan, Euro-leaning business in Britain you might have noticed, but Lugger and Seydoux didn’t seem to. ![]() They are French but Gloria would be exuberantly Italian: Italian food, bought direct from small-scale Italian producers, served by Italian staff. Gloria’s parents were Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, also known as Big Mamma. Now the kids had moved further east or south, and the crowd in Shoreditch is what New Yorkers would call “bridge-and-tunnel”. ![]() Not only was there little to suggest that Gloria would be successful or popular or good, there were hints that it could be an epic, of-the-ages case study of wrong place, wrong time. To describe it as “highly anticipated” would not be accurate. ![]() On 22 February 2019, a new restaurant, Gloria, opened halfway down Great Eastern Street in London’s Shoreditch. ![]()
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